However, when the hole is so deep it’s down to the scratch and brown coats, the repair requires two applications because a one-step patch will tend to shrink, leaving a concave surface. Shallow surface gouges and small holes left by the likes of picture hooks can be effectively filled in one application with a good cosmetic patching product or spackle-even drywall joint compound works. Do your best to match the overall character, as a patch that’s too rough-or too smooth-may be obvious under paint. Get step by step instructions for your plaster repair.įor finish coats, patching compound is OK for small areas, but finish plaster is preferred for large holes. In old houses, though, it’s a very effective upgrade for covering problem cracks or smoothing walls that have grown uneven through years of minor repairs, repaintings, and wallpaper removal. Canvassing has been used for generations on new walls to create a high-quality surface for decorative painting or expensive wallpaper. Then, after applying adhesive, you cover the entire surface with sheets of fabric-originally canvas, but now usually a modern, manmade fiber product made for this purpose. In this traditional technique, you first prep the wall, removing any loose paint and filling plaster defects. When you have plaster that is fundamentally sound, but riddled with too many hairline cracks to cover one-by-one, a good option to consider is canvassing the wall. Then fill with patching plaster (bottom) to slightly proud of the surface and sand flush when dry. Next, thoroughly wet the crack with water, then apply bonding agent with a brush at the undercut edges (middle) to help new plaster bond to the old. First, dig out the crack in an inverted V (top) that undercuts the plaster, vacuuming out all debris. Cracks and Surface ProblemsĬyclical cracks are the bane of antique walls and must be repaired with care to avoid reoccurence. Then there’s just the toll of time-movement of balloon framing, for instance, or roof leaks that saturate a ceiling or wall, stressing the plaster and lath with the added weight of water while leaching out binding materials. A more likely cause, though, is dicey installation conditions, such as plastering in weather that is too hot or humid (which can keep the plaster from setting) or too cold (which causes the plaster to freeze before it can cure). Pre-industrial plaster from the 1850s or earlier may be affected by shortcomings in the materials themselves, such as lime of uneven quality or sand that contains impurities. Historic plaster walls that have stood up well for decades can start to fail for a number of reasons. What we’ll explore here is an overview of these methods and materials to explain what’s possible with plaster repairs and how they can help you retain the solidity and beauty of three-coat plaster walls and ceilings. Though being handy comes into play here, too, repairs often gain as much from clever products specifically made to improve the results and assist the ad hoc plasterer. ![]() In contrast, flat plaster repairs are usually much smaller and more variable, with techniques adapted to the many kinds of damage and decay, from tiny cracks to large holes, and through hard-won experience. Skill and handed-down trade practices are the secret ingredients in traditional plaster, and they help make it a durable, original, and beautiful finish that old-house owners go to great lengths to keep. Need to tackle some plaster repair? Flat plastering is a time-honored, magical craft, the process of mixing dry powders and water into wet, plastic mortar, then spreading it over entire walls so that it creates a surface that is die-straight and alabaster smooth. Wall-lining textiles apply with adhesive like wallpaper and are ideal for covering multiple cracks and surface imperfections.
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